The second-hand tyre trade is enormous in South Africa, and it splits cleanly into two markets. Rims, both steel and alloy, are a genuinely good used buy, because a straight rim doesn't wear out. Used tyres are a much more careful purchase, because a tyre's history is written into rubber you have to know how to read.
What's actually available
Steel rims for bakkies and taxis (Hilux, Isuzu, NP200, Quantum) are everywhere and cheap. Original alloys for Polo, Corolla, Hilux and Ranger come up constantly, usually because someone upgraded, or a pothole took one out and the insurer replaced the set. Full second-hand tyre sets in popular sizes (14" and 15" for hatches, 17" and 18" for bakkies and SUVs) move fast. Space-saver and full-size spares are a steady trade of their own, since many people discover their spare is missing or perished only when they need it.
What it costs
A steel rim runs R250 to R800. Single OEM alloys go for R800 to R2,500 depending on the car, more for late-model bakkie wheels. Used tyres run roughly R300 to R900 each depending on size and remaining tread. For reference, a new budget tyre in a common hatch size starts around R900 to R1,200, which is worth knowing when you weigh up a used one at R600.
What to check on a used tyre
- **Tread depth, measured, not eyeballed.** South African law (National Road Traffic Act) requires at least 1mm of visible tread across the full breadth and all the way around the tyre, not just in the centre. Many road-safety bodies treat 1.6mm as the real safety margin rather than the bare legal minimum, and a tyre at 2mm has very little life left regardless. Aim for 5mm-plus on a used buy, and check the wear is even: one shoulder worn bald means the donor car had alignment problems, and the tyre's belts may be stressed. - **Sidewall cracking.** Our sun perishes rubber. Fine cracks in the sidewall or between tread blocks mean the rubber has hardened, whatever the tread depth says. A tyre can have 7mm of tread and still be dangerous. - **The date code.** The four digits after DOT on the sidewall are week and year of manufacture (e.g. 2320 = week 23 of 2020). Be wary past six years old regardless of tread. - **Repairs.** A properly done puncture repair in the centre of the tread is acceptable. Any plug or patch in the sidewall or shoulder is not: walk away, no exceptions. - **Run your hand inside the tyre** if it's off the rim. Lumps, wrinkles or exposed cords inside mean the tyre ran flat at some point and the carcass is damaged.
What to check on a used rim
- **Buckles and welds.** Spin the wheel on a hub or balancer if at all possible; a pothole-buckled rim vibrates forever and no amount of balancing fixes it. Look at the inside barrel for weld repairs. A welded alloy is a repaired failure, and opinions differ on how safe that is. Priced accordingly, some buyers accept it; know what you're buying. - **Fitment is three numbers, not one.** PCD (stud pattern), offset (ET) and centre bore all have to match. Plenty of wheels bolt on but sit wrong or need hub rings. Give us your car's details and we confirm before quoting. - **Check the bead seat for gouges** from careless tyre machines. A chewed bead seat leaks slowly and drives you mad.