Engines and gearboxes are the parts that most often send people to a scrapyard, because buying new is rarely an option: a new engine can cost more than the car is worth. The used market covers complete engines, sub-assemblies (block and head, no ancillaries), cylinder heads, gearboxes, diffs, propshafts, CV joints and driveshafts.
What's actually available
Stock follows what South Africans drive. Toyota engines are everywhere: the 2E and 4E from older Corollas and Tazzes, the 1ZZ and 2ZR from newer Corollas, the 2TR-FE petrol and 1KD/2KD diesels from Hilux and Quantum, and the old 5L diesel that refuses to die. VW Polo and Polo Vivo engines (CLP, CFN, BTS and the 1.0 TSI) move quickly. Isuzu 4JA1 and 4JJ1 diesels, Ford Ranger 2.2 and 3.2 Duratorqs, and Nissan NP200 K7M units are all steady sellers. Gearboxes for Hilux, Quantum and NP200 are in constant demand because taxis and bakkies work hard.
What it costs
A complete used engine for a common hatchback typically runs R8,000 to R18,000. Bakkie and taxi diesels go higher, from R15,000 to R35,000 depending on the unit and mileage, and a good 1KD or 4JJ1 holds its price. A sub-assembly is usually 30 to 40 percent cheaper than a complete engine. Manual gearboxes run roughly R4,000 to R12,000; automatics cost more and carry more risk. Cylinder heads go for R2,500 to R8,000. If a price looks too good against these ranges, ask why.
What to check before you buy
- **Ask for a running video before the engine is pulled**, or buy from a yard that tested it in the donor car. A cold-start video tells you more than any promise. - **Turn the crank by hand** with a spanner on the pulley bolt. It should turn smoothly with even resistance. If you can arrange a compression or leak-down test, do it, especially on a diesel. - **Look under the oil filler cap and at the dipstick.** Milky sludge means coolant in the oil, so walk away. Thick black tar means the oil was never changed. - **Check the engine number.** It must be legible and you'll need it for the police clearance when you change your papers. A ground-off number is a problem you don't want. - **Ask what car it came out of and the mileage.** A Quantum engine has usually worked far harder than the same engine out of a private Fortuner. That's not automatically a dealbreaker, since taxi engines get maintained because downtime costs money, but it should show in the price. - **On gearboxes**, check the input shaft for play and the casing for welded repairs. Ask whether the clutch was slipping in the donor car. A cooked clutch can mean a heat-damaged flywheel surface too.
The warranty question
Most yards offer an exchange warranty on engines, commonly 30 days or a set mileage. Read the conditions: many warranties fall away if the engine isn't fitted with a new cambelt, new oil and a flushed cooling system, and some require fitment by a workshop rather than a backyard mechanic. That's worth knowing before you fit it yourself. We confirm the exact warranty terms with the seller before you pay.